Gemstones have fascinated humans for centuries—not just for their vibrant colors and rarity, but for the way they catch and reflect light. One often overlooked but essential part of a gemstone’s appeal is its cut. This single factor can change how a gem looks, how it sparkles, and even how valuable it is. Let’s explore the lesser-known side of gem cuts—from historical forms to the technical evolution that brought us today’s modern brilliance.

Origins

Before precise tools existed, early gemstones were shaped by hand using rudimentary methods. The first gem cutters focused more on preserving weight than maximizing brilliance. Early gems were polished with basic tools and natural abrasives, giving them a soft, dull glow rather than a reflective shine.

As tools advanced, so did the imagination of cutters. They started to understand how angles and proportions could affect the behavior of light inside a stone. From these early experiments came the first true gem cuts.

Old Mine Cut

The old mine cut is one of the earliest known attempts to combine shape and sparkle in a gem. It appeared during the 18th and 19th centuries and was a favorite in European jewelry of the time. These cuts were usually square or cushion-shaped, with a high crown and small table. They also had a deep pavilion, which made the stone appear chunkier than modern cuts.

One feature that stands out in the old mine cut is the larger culet—the bottom tip of the gemstone. This allowed more light to pass through but gave a softer reflection pattern. These gems didn’t sparkle as brightly as today’s diamonds, but they had a romantic, candlelight glow that collectors still admire.

Rose Cut

Another antique cut, the rose cut, dates back to the 1500s. Unlike other cuts, it has a flat bottom and a dome-shaped top covered in triangular facets. These stones don’t have a pavilion, which means they don’t reflect light the same way a brilliant cut does. However, the rose cut was designed for low light conditions, like candlelit rooms, where its soft shine could still create visual magic.

Today, rose cuts are making a comeback, especially in vintage-inspired rings. Their low profile and subtle shimmer offer an antique charm that contrasts sharply with high-sparkle stones.

Transition Cut

As gem-cutting tools improved, so did the desire for greater brilliance. The transition cut came during the early 20th century, acting as a bridge between the old mine cut and the modern round brilliant. These stones had better symmetry, more facets, and a more circular outline than their predecessors.

What made transition cuts stand out was their experimentation. Cutters began tweaking angles and facet sizes to see how they could affect brilliance. These stones reflected more light and had better fire than the older cuts but didn’t yet reach the refined level of today’s standards.

Round Brilliant Cut

This is the most well-known and widely used gem cut today. It was refined in the early 20th century and perfected with mathematical precision. The round brilliant cut typically features 57 or 58 facets, all strategically placed to maximize the return of light.

What makes this cut so brilliant isn’t just the number of facets—it’s their exact arrangement. The round brilliant is designed to reflect light internally and return it through the top of the stone, creating unmatched sparkle.

It also set a standard. Jewelers began using tools like the Ideal Cut formula, which helped cutters determine the best angles and proportions for maximum brilliance. Today, this cut is the default choice for many, especially in diamond engagement rings.

Emerald Cut

While many gem cuts aim for sparkle, the emerald cut focuses on clarity and elegance. It’s rectangular with stepped facets and a large open table. This allows one to see directly into the gem’s heart.

The emerald cut doesn’t hide flaws as well as brilliant cuts, so the stones used must be high quality. But what it lacks in flash, it makes up for in style. The broad flashes of light it reflects—sometimes called the “hall of mirrors” effect—make it a popular choice for those seeking subtle sophistication.

Asscher Cut

Invented in the early 1900s, the Asscher cut is like a square version of the emerald cut. It features similar step facets but with more symmetry and a higher crown. The Asscher cut was revolutionary when it first appeared and remains popular among vintage lovers.

It combines the best of both worlds—the clarity of the emerald cut and a more condensed sparkle due to its unique geometry. Asscher cuts became especially iconic during the Art Deco era, where clean lines and symmetry ruled the design world.

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut is a blend of old-world charm and modern brilliance. It’s often compared to a pillow because of its soft, rounded corners and square or rectangular shape.

This cut has evolved over the years. Originally, cushion cuts resembled the old mine cut with fewer facets. Today, they often include additional faceting for enhanced brilliance. The modern cushion cut strikes a balance between sparkle and vintage appeal, making it a favorite for colored gemstones as well as diamonds.

Radiant Cut

If you want the sparkle of a round brilliant with the shape of an emerald cut, the radiant cut delivers. Developed in the 1970s, this cut combines step and brilliant facets for an explosion of light reflection.

It works well with both diamonds and colored stones and is favored for its bold personality. Radiant cuts also hide inclusions well, thanks to their intricate faceting.

Princess Cut

Created in the 1980s, the princess cut is a square-shaped modern cut with sharp corners and a lot of brilliance. It was designed to get the most sparkle out of a square gem, offering an alternative to the traditional round.

Princess cuts are second only to the round brilliant in popularity, especially for engagement rings. The sharp lines and symmetrical sparkle appeal to those who want something classic but just a bit different.

Pear and Marquise Cuts

These two cuts have distinctive shapes that make them stand out. The pear cut is shaped like a teardrop, blending round and marquise elements. The marquise, with its elongated oval form and pointed ends, was supposedly commissioned by French royalty to resemble a lover’s smile.

Both of these shapes create the illusion of longer fingers and provide a unique type of brilliance. While not as symmetrical as round cuts, they make up for it with personality and flair.

Oval Cut

The oval cut is another variation of the brilliant style, combining the sparkle of a round with an elongated shape. It offers a large surface area, which means the gem often appears larger than a round of the same weight.

It also stretches the hand visually, making it a flattering choice. The oval cut is versatile, working well in vintage, modern, or minimalist designs.

Impact of Cut on Value

While color, clarity, and carat weight are crucial, the cut often makes the biggest visual impact. A poorly cut gem, even with perfect clarity and color, may appear lifeless. A well-cut stone, on the other hand, can make even modest material look extraordinary.

Cut determines how light enters and exits the stone. If the angles are too shallow or too deep, light leaks out the sides or bottom instead of bouncing back to the eye. This is why precision in cutting is key—and why certain cuts fetch higher prices even in smaller sizes.

Final Thoughts

The world of gem cuts is deeper than most realize. Each cut carries its own story, technique, and character. From the glowing mystery of old mine cuts to the fiery brilliance of modern rounds, the shape of a gem is more than just design—it’s how a stone speaks to the world.

Understanding these cuts helps you appreciate not just a gem’s look, but its journey. When you hold a well-cut stone, you’re not just seeing a gem—you’re seeing centuries of human craftsmanship and the endless pursuit of perfect light.